For the MAF sensors its better to measure the frequency output rather than monitor the current - that way you are looking at the same signal as the ECU. Look here for more details https://www.picoauto.com/tutorials/testing-digital-maf-sensors.html
Active ABS sensors switch from 5mA to 15mA (typically) and there are 2 ways of looking at these. The first - on many systems you see a small switching voltage - find which wire has the higher output voltage and then zoom in to see the switching. This example is from an Aston Martin Cygnet (same waveform as a Toyota IQ).
The other option is to use the existing low amps probe, with care you can just spot the 10mA switching. Select the 500mA range and either use resolution enhancement to 16 bits or set the filter to about 100Hz. If there is any slack cable then pass the wire through the jaws of the current clamp 2 or more times as this multiplies the current (if you pass the wire through the jaws four times then the measured current will be 4x bigger so a signal switching from 5mA to 15mA will look like 20mA to 60mA. Not in the office and can not find an example waveform on this laptop at the moment.
If you want to measure wideband lambda then again the voltage trick works on some of them, but not on others (eg the Toyota AFR sensors). For these if you dont mind messing around one option is to insert a coil of say 50 turns of wire into the circuit (the 6 way break out leads and a bit of thin wire works here). Put the low amps probe around the 50 turns and the 1mA signal is now 50mA.
If however you do a lot of work with these sensors then a probe like the K110 is a good investment rather than the work arounds above. There are a few cheap mA probes from China on ebay (bright yellow) that we have had a look at but they could not pick up any measurable signal in an engine bay so do not waste your money on them. The best place to get the K110 is from our friends at Autonerdz.