Sadly even at 600ma range it's too low, but reading the spec sheet I think (or Fear!) the working range may be -80 to + 80 ma, and a max overload of 600ma ?? but either way we would need the ability to cope with say 2-3amps, probably safer to be more than that, as some items that cause a drain (alarm with flashing lights etc) can draw quite a bit ... which probably means sticking to an inductive setup, reducing the risk of damage to the kit ... it's a tough set of compromises!
Thanks for confirming my fears!! Please let me know if you come across any others, I think it will go on my Santa wish list, but it's a heap of money for something we'll only "NEED" 2-3 times a year, but boy would it help! Maybe the next car with a serious issue will mean splashing the cash!
Yes we do split the battery cable to measure the parasitic drain, as few cables are small enough for the PP264 jaws, so we use a power-saver elsewhere (OBD socket, cigar lighter, fuse board, where ever there is a +30 and chassis) while sorting out the earth cable, putting inline our custom cable set, which has a dual cable (one thick battery style with kill switch and a small cable with fuse link, and with optional 10 coil winding, which bridges the kill switch) the thick cable can be used to lock the doors or even start the car ... once the doors are locked the kill switch can be used, to put all drain via the thin cable. Using the thin cable on it's own can lead to unexpected fuse blows (and 20amp fuses in the DMM!!) hence now the more elaborate cables, but next to no chance of unexpected battery loss, no need to self learn the ECU's, radio codes and all the other grief from that happening (some of our cars take about an hour of technician time to fully relearn, not much fun!
So we can get away with a small cable for the K110 (maybe even 3-5 windings? if we needed the extra resolution).
Any other ideas gratefully received