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2011 meriva crank no start
2011 meriva crank no start
Hi, first time post on here and hoping there is someone that can help me out with this problem.
I want to try give all the information, so sorry for the long post!
2011 Meriva 1.7 (Denso type) 85,000 miles.
So I bought this car about a week ago as a spares or repair, this is a summary of what the previous owner told me his garage had already replaced these parts:
Fuel regulator/SCV
MAF
Rail pressure sensor
After this his garage told him it must be the hp pump.
I could see that these parts had been changed as the old units were inside the car, however they had fitted the wrong SCV valve as when checking the loom plug, it was just resting on the SCV plug!
The car cranks and almost starts during the first 5 seconds of cranking, but after this just cranks with no signs of firing, if you leave it a minute and try again it will try briefly again.
The in-tank pump makes an 'groaning noise and primes for like a minute, which seems like a long time and an unusual noise - I've had the tank of and put 12v direct to the pump which makes it throw fuel out at a decent rate - also changed the fuel filter - so presume this side of the system is ok and maybe normal for this car?
When cranking live data shows the rail pressure at around 200 bar initially and then can spike up to around 500 bar on occasion.
When cranking if you crack the injectors or rail there is diesel there - I've had all the injectors checked by a local specialist.
I have installed a second hand pump complete with SCV valve from a 30,000 mile car and symptoms remain unchanged - absolute nightmare of a job off the floor!! New cam belt fitted and timing checked with marks and cyl 1 at TDC.
When towed off it will start and run in limp mode, providing you keep revving, when the accelerator is released it cuts out.
So the only code is P0089 (fuel regulator performance) which returns immediately when cleared, which points to it being an electrical rather than mechanical fault?
I have done a voltage drop test from the SCV loom plug and there is 2.5v being read between battery negative and plug negative, my understanding is that anything over 0.5v on a drop test is a problem - Could this cause a no start like I am getting.
Any advice or questions gratefully received as this car is pushing me close to the edge lol
I want to try give all the information, so sorry for the long post!
2011 Meriva 1.7 (Denso type) 85,000 miles.
So I bought this car about a week ago as a spares or repair, this is a summary of what the previous owner told me his garage had already replaced these parts:
Fuel regulator/SCV
MAF
Rail pressure sensor
After this his garage told him it must be the hp pump.
I could see that these parts had been changed as the old units were inside the car, however they had fitted the wrong SCV valve as when checking the loom plug, it was just resting on the SCV plug!
The car cranks and almost starts during the first 5 seconds of cranking, but after this just cranks with no signs of firing, if you leave it a minute and try again it will try briefly again.
The in-tank pump makes an 'groaning noise and primes for like a minute, which seems like a long time and an unusual noise - I've had the tank of and put 12v direct to the pump which makes it throw fuel out at a decent rate - also changed the fuel filter - so presume this side of the system is ok and maybe normal for this car?
When cranking live data shows the rail pressure at around 200 bar initially and then can spike up to around 500 bar on occasion.
When cranking if you crack the injectors or rail there is diesel there - I've had all the injectors checked by a local specialist.
I have installed a second hand pump complete with SCV valve from a 30,000 mile car and symptoms remain unchanged - absolute nightmare of a job off the floor!! New cam belt fitted and timing checked with marks and cyl 1 at TDC.
When towed off it will start and run in limp mode, providing you keep revving, when the accelerator is released it cuts out.
So the only code is P0089 (fuel regulator performance) which returns immediately when cleared, which points to it being an electrical rather than mechanical fault?
I have done a voltage drop test from the SCV loom plug and there is 2.5v being read between battery negative and plug negative, my understanding is that anything over 0.5v on a drop test is a problem - Could this cause a no start like I am getting.
Any advice or questions gratefully received as this car is pushing me close to the edge lol
-
mcmullanryan
- Newbie
- Posts: 7
- Joined: Wed May 18, 2016 9:58 pm
Re: 2011 meriva crank no start
The quickest and best way is to just hook up scope to check PWM signal while cranking, from that you will see if it is pulling to ground and confirm what duty it is at ect. What is your MAF/MAP/temp reading while cranking?