the current is 0.71 at idle, but under load varies.... One time, just before car broke down in traffic, regulator current showed 4+ and then engine died. Almost like a struggle to increase pressure? I can see the readings of the regulator are quite random when I rev the engine sharply and rapidly (stationary). Sometimes it goes 2+... sometimes 4+ under relatively same pedal load. This brings me to another possibility which is throttle response. Pedal Demand readings seem very random. Sometimes I press the pedal sharply and the diagnostic doesn't show any load.
I really hope it's not the HP pump. How can I test regulator with a multimeter? Or if I take the regulator out, how can I tell if it's broken? Also how can I test if the rail sensor is broken/accurate? Car works fine without it....a bit under powered of course but at least no rattle.
Any help sooo much appreciated!! I've been dealing with this for some time and have no idea what can be wrong. And how can I test what is broken....
I keep getting the same code P1190- Fuel Rail Pressure Plausibility. Car starts limping/engine rattles/knocks usually in second and third gear around 2k revs +/- . Idle is fine 100%. Fault usually occurs in very close response to throttle demand (it can happen if I let go of pedal abruptly for example at 3k revs and by the time it reaches 2k and I accelerate again it starts limping)
I tried many things already, cleared the code, but so far it keeps coming back when I go for a ride..... UNLESS I disconnect the fuel rail pressure sensor. Without the sensor connected the car doesn't limp and engine doesn't rattle under load any more. So the fault is given by the HIgh Pressure sensor.
Code comes with MAF disconnected for example. Injectors are fine. LP and filter replaced.
I get live readings of 350+Kpa for LP and 26k+ at idle for HP pump (but fluctuating to 28k) and goes up to 120k under load.
Can't go past 3k revs in 5th gear, 70MPH. Unless downhill.
I have videos if you need more evidence. But maybe you guys can explain why car doesn't rattle when fuel pressure sensor is disconnected. I checked the rail cables. They have 5v and 0.5v return at ignition. The loom has been replaced a few years back.
Another culprit can be the Rail pressure regulator----> the current is 0.71 at idle, but under load varies.... One time, just before car broke down in traffic, regulator current showed 4+ and then engine died. Almost like a struggle to increase pressure? I can see the readings of the regulator are quite random when I rev the engine sharply and rapidly (stationary). Sometimes it goes 2+... sometimes 4+ under relatively same pedal load. This brings me to another possibility which is throttle response. Pedal Demand readings seem very random. Sometimes I press the pedal sharply and the diagnostic doesn't show any load.
I really hope it's not the HP pump. How can I test regulator with a multimeter? Or if I take the regulator out, how can I tell if it's broken? Also how can I test if the rail sensor is broken/accurate? Car works fine without it....a bit under powered of course but at least no rattle.
Any help sooo much appreciated!! I've been dealing with this for some time and have no idea what can be wrong. And how can I test what is broken....
Very odd nobody has some advice,,,,,,,,,,?the reason the car runs better with the fuel rail sensor disconnected is because it uses a pre-set value as a get you home value,which is based on a value stored in the ecu memory,it also looks at the sensor when the key is turned on to see what the output of the frp is and knows what it wants to see for reference.
Its not unusual for the fuel pressure regulator to go bad,there are lots of varibles,injector leakage for example,poor priming pressure,poor compression,
landroverman1958 wrote:Very odd nobody has some advice,,,,,,,,,,?the reason the car runs better with the fuel rail sensor disconnected is because it uses a pre-set value as a get you home value,which is based on a value stored in the ecu memory,it also looks at the sensor when the key is turned on to see what the output of the frp is and knows what it wants to see for reference.
Its not unusual for the fuel pressure regulator to go bad,there are lots of varibles,injector leakage for example,poor priming pressure,poor compression,
Thank you for your message.
I checked injectors, they are not leaking. I tried reving the engine while doing the test and they all leak little and equal quantity.
Poor priming pressure? I changed both pump and filter as they were old. The problem is definitely not in the LP side.
poor compression? Well that should give me a code for it I suppose. The fault is generated by rail sensor.
I understand what you said about rail sensor, it still doesn't explain why car is actually running better. If there was a mechanical issue, then no mater what I do, engine would choke. IF ECU assumes HP is correct, but in reality it's not, car would naturally choke. So this gives us a clue to what can be at fault. If injector was bad for example, even with sensor disconnected, I would "feel" that.
Hi Sir, having worked for the brand 25 years i do know there was a repair kit for simular reason.it has included a new substitute harness and fuel rail presure sensor replacement due to wiring breaking of and or getting high resistance within connector pins, causing simular symptoms.
Good evening,now you have jogged my memory about a replacement pigtail connector with Gold plated terminals,to help eliminate pin fitment and corrosion issues for the fuel rail pressure sensor,I have to say i hve not used that particular repair,
I.ve seen lots of this type of car but not encountered any connection issues,that cause the fault with car concerned.