If the Exciter wire fault is niggling you and you cant get past it you have 2 options:
1. Fix it first ! or
2. Fully Charged Battery. Take all the wiring off the alternator, tape up the connectors for safety and attach a Battery support unit to the car set at around 14v, or jump leads to a nearby car with a known good charging system with its engine running.
As confirmed by Volrem your Can is good. It is a very robust, reliable data exchange medium. Generally speaking (just my experience) it takes prolonged water damage and subsequent corrosion, Collision damage to wiring or Wrong Technique Jump Starting to knock it out.
I have previously asked,
Vacuum Gauge on Manifold ?
Measured Values ?? - Opcom will allow you to save to file, which you can post at idle and 2000rpm if that can be sustained ??
If your looking for that Golden Nugget or a Silver Bullet, Which Sensor should I replace to fix it then I cannot help, not because I don't want to, because I cannot.
I will, forevermore throw test plans at you and expect accurate answer. Where in the World are you ?? It is fixable !!! All we have to do is return it to the sort of state it left the factory in. Not a big ask?
When running it will start to run poorly misfiring and popping
Popping in the Intake tract ??
i have noticed is the "spark timing" seems to wander erratically all of the time.
Cause or Consequence ? It may be desperately trying to keep itself alive. Ever seen a headless chicken ?
All compressions are good
I assume Compressions were measured at cranking speed (~150 to ~200 rpm) ?? If so, a complete waste of time if your fault occurs at 800 rpm and above.
You have a 4 Channel scope, your best friend right now.
With it running
Channel A - Crank Position Sensor
Channel B - Injector 1 Command
Channel C - Amp Clamp on Coil Pack Earth or Power Wire
Channel D - Amp Clamp (2) on common wire to all 4 Injectors.
Enough time on the screen to see between 4 & 6 Revolutions of the Crank, Injector 1 firing 2- 3 times.
Then from Ignition off, Ignition on, crank, start, idle, WOT and back to idle.
Channel C for - O2S1 Voltage ( 4 or 6 wire) ?
Channel D for - MAF Voltage
Finally (For now) Start to idle then SNAP WOT
Ch 1 APP feedback 1 or 2
Ch 2 MAF
Ch 3. O2S1