Could anyone with some certainty tell me effects of Jacking this vehicle up or putting it up on a 2 Post Ramp without first putting it into "Jacking Mode" ?
My second question is: If I was to disconnect the 4 pipes from each of the struts at the Valve Body/Compressor Assembly, Should the car drop down to its bump stops ??
I am hoping for some one " with some certainty" and " Hands on" Experience to enlighten me on this.
Technician,
thanks for reciting the entire SSP on A8 Self Levelling in your PM , You may note from my previous posts that there is a good chance I have read them all... and some !
I was sure that on page 31 the manufacturer does advise about jacking on a two post ramp, it goes on to say that the on- board computers detect suspension movement when the car is raised. I think it also advises about the on-board computers knowing how long the wheels/suspension are in the freely hanging positions, thus the car computers adjust the suspension accordingly when the car is lowered. If you are going to dismantle the suspension for the cost involved, about 7 Euros if it were me I'd download the manufacturer repair manual, and If you are registered on the Audi website you could send them a trade email and ask their advice if you are still unsure.
My second question is: If I was to disconnect the 4 pipes from each of the struts at the Valve Body/Compressor Assembly, Should the car drop down to its bump stops ??
This is the question that has priority right now Real life stuff !!
My second question is: If I was to disconnect the 4 pipes from each of the struts at the Valve Body/Compressor Assembly, Should the car drop down to its bump stops ??
This is the question that has priority right now Real life stuff !!
Sadly can only tell you that once this "unauthorised" jacking event has occurred that a full bleed MUST be done before a reset (well appears it is often needed), and that disconnecting the pipes is one way to achieve/start the bleed ...
For those reading this who might not have found the information, Ross-Tech have covered the 2 elements as follows:
Clearly, if the bleeding / Charging element is not successful the calibration will never reset!
So on the one car I have seen with this, yes the incorrect jacking caused the system to get extremely upset and royally lopsided ...
Once bleeding has been completed, the calibration should work as long as the components have not been damaged.
Not answering your question fully, but real world tale of one example. Ours did reset fine one the bleed was complete. No components needed to fix.
Should it sit on it's bumps stops if all 4 corners are disconnected, can't say, sorry ... just fleshing the thread out for future readers
Be good to know if anyone else has other experience of this and any tips or tricks to get a quick reset done, or indeed answer STC's queston!